Soft-tip lady&#39;s hat lining



May 20, 1924; 1,495,006 l. EPHRAIM SOFT TIP LADYS HAT LINING Filed Nov. 22, 1922 J' Li, I' .2.

WITNESSES INVENTOR Patented May 20, 1924.

UNITED STATES? ISIDOR EPHRAIM, or contact: ronv'r, Lone ISLANDLNEIW YORK.

YSOFT-TI-P LAnY's HA1 LINING.

Application filed November 22, 1922. Serial No. 602,584.

To all whom it may concern: v

Be it known that I, ISIDOR EPHRAIM, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of College Point, Long Island, in the county. of Queens and State ofNew York, have invented a new and Improved Soft-Tip Ladies Hat Lining, of which the. following is a. full, clear, and exact description.

This invention aims, to provide an improved lining for use in the crowns of ladies hats, characterized by a one-ply thickness of a fibrous woven or knitted material comprising two members, a band or side piece, and a crown or tip, permanently stitched together to form the complete lining before the latter is stitched or otherwise mounted in place in the hat.

Specifically, the invention aims to provide certain improvements over the lining of such completely preformed type disclosed in U. S. Letters Patent No. 1,216,140 to Kurtz.

The nature of the construction there described and the subsequent commercial history of such construction should here be given, to explain the objects and advantages of the present invention. According to the description of that patent as to the location of the line of stitching joining the periphery of the tip and the periphery of the upper end of the band, said patent is merely representative of practice prior thereto in the art of making linings of the'kind indicated for ladies hats, the claims of said patent being both limited to the interposition at such line'of stitching of what is termed an uncovered cord to make an ornate seam. Thus this patent, as to the relative shapes of the patterns according to which tip and band are cut from ..the material used, such material generally being silk, satin, sateen or the like, calls for a band which-is of sub hemispherical concavity at the upper in-.:

stantially the same diameter at both ends of the sleeve-like body established by such band before band and tip are stitched to' gether, and consequently calls for a tip of, less diameter than the diameter of the sleevelike body. This reduced diameter for the tip is required because it has long been known,

that it is necessary in preforming such line ings to provide a circumferential piece of ma terial intermediate the opposite ends of the lining to be shirred to establish an arching of the lining all around at such intermediate zone to adapt the finally preformed lining to fit more or less closely the substantially terior of thejhatcrown. Therefore, necessarlly according: to the unclaimed disclosure of said patent and the priorconstructions analogous thereto, in regard to the shapes and relative dimensions of band and tip, the complete lining could only be preformed to have such arched portion'as the result of a gathering or shirring operation relative to the upper or tip-adjacent marginal portion of the band. Practically, however, it has been found that such a shirring of the band material, even with the patented cord above mentioned, isnot practicable commercially in a lining having tip and band both of one-ply material, due to the inability to hold the tip properly stretched during'the stitching and shirring operation which is required to join band and tip. As a result, the market is now supplied with a lining according to said patent in which the tip is of twoply'thickness, one of which plies of material isthe usual light weight piece of silk, satin, sateen or the like, and the other ply of which is of thicker, stiffer, and heavier material. the lining of said patent may be manufactured'commercially; but the troubles cured by the presence of the auxiliarytheavier ply aforesaid are thus cured at the'cost of a the object of the present invention to over come. 1 Such'disadvantage,in the' previous lining just described and having a two-ply' tip element, is the fact'that the finally preformed lining-must be mounted in a womans hat according to the, requirement of the consumer. -Such requirement is that the complete lining be mounted in the crown of the hat solely as the result ofstitching the lining in place 'in'the' hatat points along a line or linesbelow'the middle girth of the band, that is, near the line of joining 'of crown and brim'of the hat. But when a complete lining having a two-ply tip as desired is so mounted in the hat, the weight According to this construction,

serious resulting disadvantage,*which it is band and tip-may berstitcheda,together easilyand quickly and at nominal e'ostt-o provlde a hat lining having the required arch all around, and accordinglythe objectofwthe present invention may be attained simply as the result of rearranging the r,elative-dimen-' sions of band and tip and correspondingly relocating the line of'stitching joining the same, 'WllllQ preferably using an interponent of "a different cross-sectional 1 characteristic thanthe cord proposed-by saidpatent. This interponent is 'ajfiexible elongate strip, hav- 'ing, however, dissimilar lateral dimensions,

that is, being of greater widthfth'an -tliic-kness; which interponent may bea leifgtliiof ribbon, tape, braid, or "any flat elongate-piece of :In'ater-ijal, but "preferably one vvitlfait least one selvage'd gedge. The -i-'nt 'ejrponent offthe present invention is thusjpreferablyus'ejd to' euttingusuch band from a pattern-having parallel straight 'sides jra'ther thanfarcnate sides as is customary injth'e' art'ofi' niaking linings for men?s vhats of the s'tifi-f'elt-o'rotvn type and here the lini'ng is gluedor stitched at various tip portions tothe interior'o'f the' hat-crown. This 'patterning-ot-the band as described is iinportant,because otherwise the band Will not be a tubular-'meinb'er of sub stantiallyconstant diameter "from top 9 to bottom as isr'equiredj for *ladiesj hatsto jail loivfor variouscoifiures. The manufacture interponent'. preferably employed, because of the lining of the present invention is further facilitated by fthel use of -the tape-like such. interponent ma y be easily and; quickly mended, a .featureio'fr'the present i nvention is the use o'ftwo lines of stitching atthe junction of band and tip, rather t'ha n merely gone I as innsaid patent; the first applie'd line of stitching joining: tip and strip andfsiniulstitched to the gathered or 'shirred ina'rgi'n'a'l portion of'thetip'when such tip issogatlr ered or shirred before stitchi'ngtip and {band together; I and in such ease; which is reeoin;

taneously gathering Or Shirring tip and strip, and the second appliedli'ne of stiteh in'g goinlng'band and tip and preferabl als'o pircingthefstrip; n The invention will be more clearly understood'frorn tl1e'fo1 lovving description, when; taken'in "connection i with the accompanyingdravving illustrating'an 9e 'bo'diiiie'nt of the 7 invention as at pr se tiprefer red, in "wh'ieh drawing:

more ot less agrammatie viewsirfiaphieally findicating the sahent distinctions between tip and hand of "anJaXial"sectional View illustrating the details of construction oftip and band of the *present invention incorporating the interponent aforesaid. a V l Referring first to Figs. '1 to 4, the elenient 6 may be taken as representing the band beforebeingatta-ched to the tip.'] This band is cut'from a piece of silk,-satin,sateen o'r the-like, pursuant to apattern having straightparallelsides, so that the band, \vhenits opposite ends are joined by any suitable stitche'd-seain ("not shown is truly cylindrical. ai1d-- not conformant to theside wall ofthe frustr uin of "a brine. The bandjfi of Fig; *1 ma represent 'either the band of the pa'te'nt 'aforesaid or the band ofth'elining" ofthepr'esent invention. {1

"2sh'ows such band in top pla n; at the V line 6; but in this view the dot-and-dasli lines 7 indicate the periphery ofthe new tip, after the same is gathered or shirred'as above described. While Y the line 8 indicates the periphery of said tip before such gathering or shirring. On thejotherfhand, as Will be see'n from hat follows in describ-' in t-he details, of Fig. 3, or rather in'con-- trastingthe detail'sj'of Figs. 3 and', the line 7 oft-Fig. 2 representsalso the unshirr'ed periphery of the tipof said paten'hand" also the periphery of the upper end ofthe band of's'aid patent afterthe saine is shirr'e'd. *Th-us', referring now to Figs. 3 and' g the former illustrates-the characteristicGross-seetionof the lining of said patent, While the latter illustrates the character-i stie fc'r'os's se'm tion otthe-lining of the present invention. As a liningis shown in Fig. 3, then,th'eband is shown 'at 6 the shi-rred arch portion at {'7, the tip at 8 and the stitching joiningband and'ti'p at 10?;Andas a lining isrsho'wn in 11 Fig-1 '4, the band is hown at e gthe ar'eh portion at 9 th'e' tip 't' 8?, and thestitehing jdini'ng band an'dtip at 10*, A

I It will therefore be seen that Whereas in the'lini ng-o'fsaidpatent, thearch portion is 115 V apart ofthe band and the line of stitching which joinsba'nd and-tip is located above;

the arch portion, 'a's iniFig. 3-, int he lini-n'gof thfe present invention the arch portion is a part o'fjthe tip and the lineof stitching joining band and "tip is located below the arc11 -pe1-tion, as in' Fig i. p 7 i Fig; should now :beexami ned; 'Whichshows more clearly the i details 1 'ofuconstrud tion of the pr'e'sentlinin'g, as Welles the'pre'j 1 ferred presence -of 'the'interponent of strip material. In this view, the ba'ndl-is indicatedat 6", the-tip at ;8 the arch jpo'rtion of the latter at 9 and the preferably employed in{ ter'pone'nt at 11. -As'illustrated,*the outer marginal portion of the tip is shirred as indicated at 12 to establish such arch portion. Arch portion 9 is preferably established before the tip is attached to the band by a line of stitching 13, which latter also serves to attach the preferably incorporated interponent 11 to the tip. If such interponent is a strip of silk ribbon, and shirred slightly also during the operation of applying the gathering stitches 13, the decorative appearance of the lining when finished and mounted in the hat will be greatly enhanced; it being appreciated in this connection, of course, that the parts as drawn in Fig. 5 show the complete lining but arranged inside out as in the course of making up the same. It will be understood that when the parts are arranged as shown in Fig. 5, and the interponent 11 is used, the single line of stitching 13 may be employed to attach all three elements together. Preferably, however, and most decided- 1y so, because otherwise the main object of the present invention will not be served, a second line of stitching 14 is subsequently used for joining band and tip as shown clearly in Fig. 5.

What I claim as new and desire to secure by United States Letters Patent is:

1. As a new article of manufacture, a flexible lining for the crowns of ladies hats, including tip and band members of one-ply flexible material stitched together along a circumferential line, the band being of substantially the same diameter at top and bottom, and the tip being a substantially circular piece shirred around its marginal portion to present a dished top.

2. .As a new article of manufacture, a flexible lining for the crowns of ladies hats, including tip and band members of one-ply flexible material stitched together along a circumferential line, the band being of substantially the same diameter at top and bottom, and the tip being a substantially circular piece shirred around its marginal portion to present a dished'top, and a' fiexible strip of greater width than thickness interposed and secured in place between tip and band.

3. As a new article of manufacture, a fiexible lining for the crowns of ladies hats, in-

cluding tip and band members of one-ply flexible material stitched together along a circumferential line, the band being of substantially the same diameter at top and bottom, and the tip being a substantially circular piece shirred aroundits marginal portion to present a dished top, and a flexible shirred strip of greater width than thickness and stitched longitudinally to the lining and interposed in place between tip and band.

4. The lining defined in claim 3, wherein said strip is secured to the shirred edge of thetip by a single circumferential line of stitching, and the strip, tip and band are secured together by a second circumferential line of stitching.

ISIDOR EPHRAIM. 

